Day 9&10, June 23-24, 2008Today we headed off to Louisburg on the eastern tip of Cape Breton. Got some pictures and then traveled up the shoreline of Bras d’Or Lake - beautiful really big big lake. Road again really rough – hardly any traffic, lots of forest. This route takes us to Sydney, where we then take a road to the Fortress of Louisbourg.
As we approach the fort we all go WOW!! We had no idea how big it was. What a sight. We were expecting a fort that looks like those you see in the movie, or like a Fort Langley. Not a chance. It turns out the original Louisburg was actually a planned, fortified city often made of stone and built with the King’s money (Louis XV of France) so it actually was similar in appearance to a European city of the time. It encompassed 30 full city blocks and although only 5 blocks have been reconstructed we quickly realize we won’t see it all in one day. To Phil this was like what Disneyland is to Lucas so we toured as long as we could and then returned the next day.

The gate keeper was not sure if they should let Lucas in as he was wearing a red coat and carrying a musket (he purchased the toy musket at the gift shop prior to going into the park). This was quite the joke, and so they warned Lucas to be on his best behavior because they watch carefully the men in red coats (the British wore red coats – the French wore blue).
Phil took the guided tour, while Lucas and I went directly to the military area and where the cannons were. A couple of dozen fortress staff are dressed in period costumes to answer questions about the buildings, and the life of the people in them. They do demonstrations of military drilling including firing muskets and cannons, (its really loud, trust me), music, dancing and “public punishments” where one of the actors is marched through the street to the jeers of the costumed town folk (and 10 year old boy customers) to be placed in the “iron collar.”
Because the French kept meticulous records of the building and operations of Louisbourg, Parks Canada was able to reconstruct the buildings on the original foundations exactly as they were in 1744, and used largely the same building methods and materials to do it. There was a record of everthing tht came in and out of the city, so from furniture, to dishes, to clothing was catalogued and recorded. It was very cool to experience the life of the residents of the time. We tried some “middle class” bread baked exactly how it was done 250 years ago (you need strong jaw muscles to chew and only about 3 bites to fill you up for the day), ate pea soup and French toast bedecked in a large white napkins tied around our necks and using a single spoon for everything we ate.

Lots of fun and we highly recommend this to anyone who comes out to Nova Scotia.
Cool facts we learned:
1) Louisbourg’s executioner was a guy from the West Indies who was visiting Louisburg, got into some trouble and was to be hanged. The current executioner quit as the West Indian was standing with a noose around his neck. The West Indian volunteered to take over the executioner duties in exchange for his life and the governor agreed.
2) Under the mercantilist system used by France at the time, Louisbourg was not allowed to produce anything for trade or even thier own use, but had to order everything (literally) from France. They were only allowed to send fish (mostly cod) to France, and act as a shipping gateway for fur from the rest of North America.
3) Salted cod was a very lucrative trade. A pound of cod was worth four times more than a pound of beaver pelts.
4) A “well turned” calf muscle was considered a very sexy asset for upper class men - meant to be showed off to its best advantage during the dances. Some men who didn’t score so high on this would stuff there socks with material to “enhance” there legs. In paintings of the time a trained eye can actually spot the falsies.
5) After a canon is forged it is buried in sand and takes 7 days to cool down enough to be shipped.
6) Louisbourg is built exactly on the 46 degree paralell, which meant ships could sail directly on the paralellel and land at a port in France near Paris. The trip could take as little as 4 weeks.
Lucas’ Statement: Did you know that… soldier's bread was made of 80% whole wheat and 20 % rye flour, middle class bread was 50% whole wheat and 50% white flour, and the officers bread was all white. (By the way, a soldier loaf was about half the size of ours loaves today and weighed 6 pounds!)